July 3rd, 2013,
11:40am
Before I left for Ghana, Western
University require me to take a 2 day seminar on international travel. Most of the information was pretty basic like
make sure you have a passport, immunizations and some money. One thing I did take away from it was the
four stages of travel for an extended trip.
The first stage was for the first few weeks you’re in awe of your
surroundings and a bit scared of your new country. The second stage was the honeymoon phase
where everything is the best and you want to move and stay forever. The third stage which usually comes after 2
months is the hateful stage, were everything about the country is horrible and
you get a bad bout of homesickness. The
fourth and final stage is acceptance and you just become part of the country
you are visiting.
One of the reasons I spend two nights a week teaching English |
Before my trip to the Volta
region last weekend I believe I was very much in the third stage, because
everything in Ghana was driving me mad for the week before I left for
Volta. It was all I could do to stop
people and tell them “That’s not how that should be done”.
The soccer match I attended last weekend |
Stage three peaked for me when I
got into my first tro-tro accident on the way home from work one evening. Our tro-tro was going down a small dirt road
when we came upon a broken-down tro-tro in the middle of the road with no way
to get around it. The driver and the
mate, the guy who collects the money, of the broken down tro-tro had to push it
out of the way, and because we had stopped right behind them they could only
push it forward, which happened to be uphill.
They both started pushing the tro-tro up the hill, but did not have
enough muscle power to make it all the way to the top, and since no one was in
the driver’s seat to push the brakes, the tro-tro proceeded to roll down back
down the hill and crash into us. It
could have been a scene right out of a three stooges’ movie, I laughed and
everyone else on the tro-tro stared to assign blame to either our driver for
stopping to close, the other tro-tro for breaking down, or for the other driver
and mate for not being strong enough.
Working on the sewer treatment plant |
Also Ghana is a very loud county,
music is played at all hours of the day at extremely high volumes, even in
shops or on the street, anywhere there is power someone will be blasting music
or sometimes preaching. The noise levels
combined with the majority of things not being quite correct had me out of
sorts for a week or so, but four days in the lovely Volta region have me
feeling much better about Ghana now. I
have decided to go full on Ghana, no more watch, no more worrying and maybe a
bit more afternoon drinking for my sanity.
As an example of my new Ghana world view, I was at immigration control
on Tuesday and when I got to the front of the very long line I proceeded to
have a ten minute conversation with the lady at the desk about how her weekend
went, she had to attend a funeral so not that well. If it had been in Canada I probably would
have been stabbed in the back for making a line of 30 plus people wait while we
had a nice chat, only to find out in the end she could not help me. I know this because in Canada I would have
been the person doing the stabbing, like in all those long Tim Horton’s line
when the person gets to the front after ten minutes and goes “Let’s see now,
I’m not sure what I feel like today, maybe a…”
The Volta region was very
beautiful. I stayed on the Volta River
downstream from the Akosombo dam. The
dam provides sixty percent of Ghana’s electric power, the other forty percent
comes from oil and gas. Lake Volta
behind the dam is the largest man made lake in the world. I had a lot of nice seafood caught fresh from
the Volta, grouper fish, shrimp and some octopus, but I don’t think that came
from the river. I had planned to go on a
lake cruise for the day, but the boat they used for the cruise had burned down
and would not be repaired till September.
I also did a tour of the dam, it was very interesting. The dam is an earthen dam, which is just a
giant pile of clay and rocks. The
original vision for the dam was for its power to be used to support a large
aluminium industry, but that never got off the ground. I also spent Monday, which is Republic day
here in Ghana, at Botti falls which is a sacred site and was supposed to have a
large traditional festival on Monday.
The falls were very nice, but the festival was aimed a school kids who
were bused in for the holiday.
The Volta River |
The Volta Bridge, for all the engineers |
Botti falls |
Crowds of people at the Botti falls festival |
Akosombo dam |
Work on the sewer project is continuing. We are getting to the hardest parts of the
project where the water level is very high and has been causing our trench to
cave in. We have had to work in very
small sections with the water being pumped out continuously. It is slow going but we are slowly getting
there. We have also had to extend the
project, the drainage system is being extended to protect some of the northern
neighbors and we have had to add a berm along the north side of the property to
prevent surface water from reaching the neighbors. Everyone on the project agrees that neither
of these extensions are necessary, but the neighbors have been complaining
loudly to the local government officials.
I did find out that the northern neighbors do not even own the land
they live on, it is all owned by the university and they just have not taken
the time or effort to force them to leave and bulldoze the homes build
there. I’m also told that the neighbors
are upset because they felt that when the driveway to the sewage plant was paved,
they should have also paved their road as a courtesy.
Johnny
In Ghana funerals are a very big deal. Have you seen any of their famous coffins? I've seen them on google. It's a different culture and different mind set. Being there so long I would think you'd have to accept it or go nuts. Good for you accepting it.
ReplyDeleteI did see a couple of coffin building shops up north, but nothing that stood out as special. They do however have a unique way of announcing a death. When someone dies they will put up posters around the neighborhood announcing the death and giving details on the funeral or as they usually call here a celebration of life. Ghana also has a television channel dedicated to obituaries, which means it must be quite important as they only have twenty one channels and one is showing death announcements full time.
ReplyDelete